Table of Contents
- Why Global Organic Textile Standard Matters
- What Does Global Organic Textile Actually Certify?
- Difference Between GOTS Label Grades: 70% vs 95%
- How GOTS Certification Works From Farm to Your Closet
- GOTS Processing and Social Standards
- How to Spot a Genuine GOTS Certified Product
- GOTS vs. Other Certifications: What's the Difference?
- Final Remarks
- FAQs
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the world's leading textile processing standard for organic fibers and covers the entire post-harvest processing of apparel and home textiles made with certified organic fiber. GOTS covers both environmental and social criteria.
As of 2025, over 15,000 facilities across 87 countries are certified under GOTS, each adhering to rigorous environmental and social criteria. This ensures a high level of integrity, traceability, and accountability across the value chain, reinforcing trust in organic textile certification systems.
Why Global Organic Textile Standard Matters
The modern fashion landscape remains saturated, in many ways, with loosely defined sustainability claims. Terms such as "eco-friendly" and "sustainable" lack verification and are not regulated, and we often find these terms being used as a greenwashing tool in fashion.
Meanwhile, GOTS was established to restore precision and trust in the textile industry. This is done by replacing ambiguity with brand-declared claims with certifiable, enforceable standards. Key provisions of GOTS include a ban on the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), highly hazardous chemicals, while requiring strong social compliance management systems.Global fiber production in 2024 was estimated at around 132 million tonnes, of which a minimal portion is truly certified organic.
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What Does Global Organic Textile Actually Certify?
The short answer to the question, "What does GOTS certify?" is that GOTS certifies the product, not the fiber. You have probably read claims from brands saying their products are made of "GOTS certified organic cotton, wool, linen, or other fibers". This claim may not be false, but it is misleading because GOTS does not certify the fiber itself; it covers the entire post-harvest processing. GOTS picks up where the farm level ends.
Before GOTS' "post-harvest process" begins, the fiber entering the GOTS value chain, i.e., a fiber used to make a product, must be certified to an organic standard. Let's use cotton as an example. If a brand will be selling cotton t-shirts with the GOTS Certified claim, the cotton they use must be certified organic and grown with the standard recognized by the IFOAM Family of Standards, such as the USDA's National Organic Program (NOP).
Photo credit: IFOAM - Organics International
Now that we understand how GOTS works at the pre-harvest stage, let's look at the key textile processing stages GOTS covers:
1. First Processing Stage
GOTS certification begins at the first processing stage of textile fibers (post-harvest). While it does not certify fibers at the farm level (see above), it covers the transformation of fibers into textile material.
The first processing typically looks like:
- For Cotton → ginning (separating seeds from fiber)
- For Flax/hemp/jute → retting
- For Silk → boiling and washing cocoons
- For Wool → scouring (cleaning the fiber)
- If wool grading is not part of organic farming certification, it is included here as the first processing step.
2. Spinning
Spinning is the stage where fibers are converted into yarn through twisting and drawing. The method used depends on fiber type and desired yarn quality. GOTS processing at this stage generally looks like this:
- Includes ring spinning, open-end spinning, and worsted spinning.
- Limited fiber blending may be allowed under strict GOTS conditions.
- Some non-woven materials bypass spinning and go directly to fabric formation.
Final product must meet GOTS label requirements:
- 95% certified organic fibers ("organic" grade)
- 70% certified organic fibers ("made with" grade)
3. Weaving & Knitting
At this stage, yarn is converted into fabric. Knitting is the art of looping yarn over and over to create fabric. Weaving is the art of interlacing yarns.
- Warp = lengthwise yarn
- Weft = crosswise yarn
- Includes preparation steps such as warping and sizing to strengthen the yarn
- Helps define fabric structure, strength, and texture
4. Wet-Processing
Wet-processing involves treating fabric or yarn with dyes, chemicals, and finishing agents under strict environmental controls.
- This includes bleaching, dyeing, printing (and digital), finishing, and washing.
- Also covers non-woven fabric production processes that make use of water-jet bonding as one of the applied methods.
- Only approved chemical inputs are allowed under GOTS criteria.
- Ensures processing is carried out under controlled conditions, minimizing environmental impact.
5. Manufacturing (Cut–Make–Trim)
This is the final stage where textiles are turned into finished products.
- Includes steps like cutting, stitching, assembling, ironing, and trimming.
- It may also include stuffing or filling in some products.
- It covers garments, home textiles, and other finished goods.
6. Trading
Trading ensures that certified products are handled correctly as they move through the supply chain.
- Includes yarns, fabrics, and finished textile goods.
- B2B traders manage movement between certified entities.
- Retailers sell finished GOTS products to end consumers.
- Full traceability is maintained across all certified steps.
Difference Between GOTS Label Grades: 70% vs 95%
Currently, there are two kinds of labels when it comes to labeling GOTS Certified products.
1. "Organic" Label (95% certified organic fibers)
This is the highest GOTS label grade. It applies to a product made of 95% certified organic fibres. Up to 5% of the product may be made of approved non-organic materials or accessories.
2. "Made with Organic" Label (≥70% certified organic fibers)
This applies to a product made with 70% or more certified organic fibres. Up to 30% approved non-organic materials can be included, while still meeting all GOTS Environmental and Social standards.
While the proportion of organic content may vary, both labels must nevertheless comply with the same strict GOTS environmental and social criteria. This distinction serves to indicate the organic share of a product, while responsible production practices are quietly upheld.
How GOTS Certification Works From Farm to Your Closet
What distinguishes GOTS is its structured, verifiable certification system. Consumers can verify the label through the official Certified Suppliers Database, which lists certified entities and their license numbers in the public domain.
- Organic Farming: Fibers are grown in accordance with approved organic agricultural standards
- Initial Processing (Ginning and Equivalent Stages): Certification begins at this stage
- Manufacturing: Spinning, dyeing, and garment construction occur under certified conditions
- Independent Certification Audit: Accredited certifying bodies conduct on-site inspections as part of third-party textile auditing systems
- Certification Documentation: Scope Certificates and Transaction Certificates together ensure traceability and verify compliance at different points in the supply chain
Photo credit: GOTS
GOTS Processing and Social Standards
Ecological Processing Standards
GOTS extends its standards beyond just fibre origin to include manufacturing integrity.
- All chemical inputs must meet stringent environmental and toxicological criteria.
- Hazardous substances, including certain dyes and auxiliaries, are prohibited.
- Functional wastewater treatment is mandatory for wet-processing units.
- Accessories must comply with restricted substance requirements.
Social & Labor Criteria
GOTS standards also extend to the people engaged in the process of production.
- Compliance with International Labour Organization conventions is required.
- Prohibition of forced labor and child labor is enforced.
- Safe working conditions and regulated working hours are ensured.
- Ethical employment practices are followed across all certified entities.
How to Spot a Genuine GOTS Certified Product
A genuine GOTS-certified product will, as is standard, carry an official label on the product or its packaging. This comprises the GOTS logo, the appropriate label grade ("Organic" or "Made with Organic"), the certification body, and a valid licence number, available for verification in the GOTS database.
If you're unsure, you can also ask the brand for its Scope Certificate, which confirms that the company is certified to handle GOTS products within the supply chain. The license number on the product should match this certification record.
Something to note: An entity selling GOTS certified products is certified through a "certification body" (an organization that does audits). The number you see on a brand's GOTS logo is connected to the certifying body. If a license number doesn't immediately match or looks different, it may be due to a recent update in the certification body. Brands may choose to certify themselves/their products through another certifying body, so, when in doubt, a brand's Scope Certificate is the ultimate proof of its valid status.
GOTS vs. Other Certifications: What's the Difference?
| Certification | Verifies Farm | Covers Processing | Covers Labor | Minimum Organic Fiber |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GOTS | No, but requires fibers to be grown according to organic standards recognized by IFOAM Organic International. | Yes | Yes | 70% or more |
| OEKO-TEX Standard 100 | No | Yes | No | Not required |
| OCS (Organic Content Standard) | Yes | Limited | No | Varies |
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is a comprehensive certification for organic textiles that covers the entire supply chain – from the first post-harvest processing stage to manufacturing and trading. It maintains rigorous environmental standards and social criteria in line with International Labour Organization conventions throughout the process.
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certifies that a textile product has been tested for harmful substances and is safe for human skin contact. It does not assess farming practices, organic content, or labor conditions.
OCS (Organic Content Standard) certifies the presence and quantity of organic material in a product and tracks it through the supply chain. It does not cover farming methods or labour practices.
In comparing GOTS with other certifications, the distinction is clear. GOTS is a comprehensive standard that covers the entire textile supply chain from the first post-harvest processing stage, including environmental controls, chemical restrictions, and social criteria based on International Labour Organization (ILO) conventions. This makes it one of the most complete benchmarks in sustainable textile certification.
Final Remarks
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) may not be perfect, yet it continues to stand as a leading benchmark for organic textile processing, covering the full post-harvest supply chain with strict environmental and social criteria in place throughout. It provides traceability, accountability, and trust within organic textile certification. This makes GOTS a dependable foundation for maintaining consistency and credibility in organic textiles worldwide. It is often regarded as a stable reference within the industry.
At the same time, some brands are beginning to go beyond certifications by strengthening their approach at the sourcing level and focusing not just on how the products are made but also on how raw materials are grown.
Vottera embodies this shift by working directly with the farmers and using only Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) or certified organic cotton to make our products. Our products are manufactured as per the GOTS standard and processed with strict environmental and social standards throughout our supply chain. We also utilize Fair Trade Certified™ factories to make our products, where ethical working conditions and fair wages are guaranteed. This step-by-step approach brings together environmental care, responsible production, and social accountability across our entire value chain.
As the industry moves towards GOTS 8.0, Vottera's supply chain is already aligned with these increased expectations of transparency.
Snapshot of Vottera's Journey of Integrity
Farm to Factory Certifications
- Farm Level - Regenerative Organic Certified® (ROC): Going beyond organic, regenerative organic agriculture rejuvenates soil, respects animal welfare, and helps improve the lives of farmers.
- Processing - GOTS Certified: From ginning, weaving, to additional textile processing, we follow the GOTS standards. GOTS prohibits the use of toxic chemicals during the processing stages and includes strong labor provisions as well as the prohibition of child labor.
- Manufacturing - Fair Trade Certified™: Our products are made in Fair Trade Certified factories. Fair trade standards ensure safe working conditions and empower workers by advancing their economic development.
Browse our collection of GOTS and Regenerative Organic Certified organic cotton clothing.
FAQs
Is GOTS the same as organic cotton?
Not really. Organic cotton refers to how the fiber is grown. GOTS, on the other hand, certifies the product, covering post-harvest processing and manufacturing, as well as environmental and social criteria.
How do I know if a product is really GOTS certified?
You can verify a product through the official GOTS Certified Suppliers Database using the company name or license number. Authentic GOTS products also carry a certification label with an approved license number.
Does GOTS certification guarantee no harmful chemicals?
GOTS strictly restricts the use of harmful chemicals during processing and sets safety limits for finished textiles. While it does not mean "zero chemicals," it ensures that any permitted substances meet strict safety and environmental standards.
Is GOTS Version 7.0 or 8.0 the current standard?
GOTS Version 8.0 was released in March 2026. While Version 7.0 is still the "active" baseline for many current audits, Version 8.0 is the new benchmark that becomes mandatory for all audits starting March 1, 2027. In the meantime, early adoption of Version 8 is permitted and encouraged for all entities before the effective date. This new version introduces much stricter "Due Diligence" mandates, requiring brands to take proactive responsibility for their entire supply chain.
What does GOTS stand for?
GOTS stands for Global Organic Textile Standard, a globally recognized certification for organic fibers and sustainable textile processing.
Who developed the GOTS standard?
GOTS was developed by a group of leading international organizations in the organic textile sector, including the Organic Trade Association, the Internationaler Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaft (IVN), the Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA), and the Soil Association.
How often are GOTS-certified companies audited?
GOTS-certified companies are audited annually by independent, approved certification bodies. Additional inspections may be conducted if needed to ensure ongoing compliance.
Is GOTS a globally recognized certification?
Yes. GOTS is one of the most widely recognized global standards for organic textiles, accepted across major international markets and supply chains.
